FOR ME, EXPLORATION HAS ALWAYS BEGUN AT CIVILIZATION’S END. In most locations, one should retreat from the neon indicators and golden arches and absolutely exit the concrete jungle to search out wilderness. Usually, if I’ve even one bar of reception on my cellular phone, I have not wandered far sufficient. Most populated locations in America try to combine wilderness into civilization within the type of “inexperienced areas” – finely manicured plots of garden and picnic benches which might be alleged to convey a way of nature and openness. Within the Deep South, it is the opposite means round. Right here, small cities carve a way of civilization into immense, untamed wilds. Even bigger suburbs appear strained to maintain a creeping wilderness at bay.

Slidell is a New Orleans suburb that lies underneath a cover of loblolly pine on the northeast shore of Lake Pontchartrain. It is an space saturated with rivers and bayous, the place small gravel roads result in stilted residence neighborhoods deep within the marshes the place you would not suppose neighborhoods would or might be. It is a lowland so low (Three toes, to be precise) that the time period “terra firma” does not actually apply. And in contrast to most locations within the nation, right here one can concurrently be deep within the wilderness and a stone’s throw from a Waffle Home.

Slidell is bordered to the east by the West Pearl River, which flows from it is headwaters within the space of the Nanih Waiya Indian Mounds in central Mississippi and drains into the Rigolets and ultimately into the Gulf of Mexico. The Pearl is residence to the Honey Island Swamp, probably the most lovely and least-altered river swamps in america. It takes it is identify from tales of ample wild honey made by renegade bees that had escaped their beekeepers.


We had made no resort reservations. There was nothing on the itinerary. We had no plan aside from to drive lonely roads and discover forgotten corners of this subtropical wonderland. We drove slowly alongside Hwy 190, attempting to take the whole lot in. I quickly noticed that tombs weren’t the one objects stolen away by Katrina’s flood waters. A big tugboat loomed simply off the freeway, miles from any open water. I obtained out to take some photos and was immediately attacked by swarms of what regarded like over-sized flying ants. These little monsters got here in mating pairs, and I used to be amazed that they’d take the outing of their procreative ceremony to sink their enamel (or fangs, or pokers, or no matter) into my forearms. My solely possibility was to run till I obtained shut sufficient to snap a pair photos, then dash again to the automotive. It is superb how briskly an out-of-shape thirty-year-old can run when being chased by hordes of two-headed satan bugs.

Just a few miles and several other extra beached boats later, we pulled right into a clamshell lot fronting a swamp museum on the banks of the Pearl. A picket walkway led out to the financial institution the place we met two swamp tour captains, each with heavy Cajun accents. It was early afternoon and each captains had ended their excursions for the day. The swamp tour enterprise was good earlier than Katrina, they informed me. Honey Island Swamp guides at the moment are fortunate to have one full boat per day, and it will have been a waste of fuel and time to take solely us on an after-hours tour. As we had been turning to stroll again to our automotive, one other tour boat floated by and supplied to take us aboard.

Ah, the swamp. One thing I’ve seen in lots of a film however by no means skilled for myself. It was amazingly quiet for an space so wealthy with wildlife. The setting was proper out of the boat launch scene on the Pirates of the Caribbean trip at Disneyland- besides that specific trip scene was most likely taken straight from right here. Outdated ramshackle boathouses lined the financial institution throughout from the launch, and I half anticipated to move a fisherman strumming ‘O Susanna’ on his banjo earlier than plunging down a waterfall into the world of swashbuckling pirates. However this was the actual deal. It was apparent that Katrina had been right here. Strains of boathouses floated deserted alongside the shore. Throughout from the launch one medium-sized boathouse rested atop a a lot smaller outhouse. A smaller boathouse floated beside the primary, seemingly untouched by the storm.


“I’ll activate just a little AC,” stated Captain Neil Benson, proprietor of Pearl River Eco-tours. “Oh good,” I believed. “I am dying out right here!” Seems he simply meant he was going to drive the boat actually quick. It did really feel good although. After rushing alongside the principle waterway for a mile or so, Captain Neil stopped to show right into a slim channel main right into a slough he known as Useless River. A slough is a shallow backwater lake system that parallels the principle bayou waterway. The Honey Island Swamp is a 70,000 acre maze of those sloughs.

“Be careful for the enormous cutgrass as we go,” Neil warned as he pointed to thick patches of tall, broad-leafed grass that brushed the perimeters of the boat as we drifted previous. “That’ll lower your fingers fairly good.”

Neil Benson grew up within the swamp. He first set out alone in a pirogue at age 10 and owned his first motorized flat boat at 12. “I do know some folks out right here which might be fairly unusual. All people who lives within the swamp is working from something- both the legislation or the voices of their heads.”

This caught my curiosity. I requested him later to elaborate.

“The swamp is a spot to lose yourself- generally on objective, generally by accident. If you’re working away from life, the swamp will simply accommodate your request and take no matter previous you had and conceal it in its waters and beneath its cover of bushes.”

We had been a few mile into Useless River’s labyrinth earlier than I noticed I hadn’t been bitten by any bugs since we left the automotive. Not even one mosquito, which shocked me, given we had been on an open boat deep within the swamp. The truth is, aside from our toddler’s repeated makes an attempt to leap from the vessel, this was probably the most peaceable boat trip I’ve ever been on. The swamp is an eerily lovely place. Knobby knees of bald cypresses appear to drift on the murky floor. The nonetheless, darkish waters mix with the impenetrable fauna and moss-hung tupelos to solid a haunting, but enchanting spell. Wikipedia defines a swamp as “a wetland that options non permanent or everlasting inundation of enormous areas of land by shallow our bodies of water.” Neil defines it as as an “underwater forest.”


Neil killed the engine because the slough opened into an oxbow lake or billabong, created when a large meander of the river is lower off. I seen a small inexperienced tree frog perched on the handrail subsequent to my elbow. Although the swamp is densely populated with wildlife, it takes a skilled eye to really spot most of it. As soon as I noticed that frog, I started noticing them all over the place. The swamp is sort of a 3-D The place’s Waldo guide. One of the simplest ways spot wildlife is to consider one sort of animal and scan the banks till you see it.

We do not have a variety of critters in Utah. I sleep on forest flooring and dive into lakes and rivers with no second thought. My Texas-bred spouse practically went into cardiac arrest the primary time she noticed me wade out into the Provo River for a swim. In Utah there’s a notable lack of animals that may harm/maim/kill you in comparison with the Deep South. Probably the most harmful creature to hikers in Utah is the rattlesnake- and even he provides you with honest warning earlier than placing.

What’s unsettling to me on this bathroom is the wildlife you’ll be able to’t see- the critters that lurk beneath the rusty floor of the water. Neil says swimming within the swamp isn’t any extra harmful than swimming in every other river. “Sure, we now have alligators, snakes and the occasional bull shark within the river. But, like most animals of their pure ecosystem, the animals are extra afraid of people than people are afraid of them.”

Properly, I assume if it is solely an occasional bull shark combined in with the alligators and snakes. I really feel so reassured!


Considerably of a political anomaly, Neil is a critical environmentalist who drives a pickup with an NRA bumper sticker. His love for exploration and journey developed right into a ardour for this delicate ecosystem, and he is been guiding swamp excursions for over a decade. Just a few days after hurricane Katrina practically stripped life from the swamp by ripping off its cover and flooding it with salt water, Neil ventured out to examine the harm with reporter Ben Montgomery of the Tampa Tribune.

“That is unbelievable,” he informed Montgomery. “For the lifetime of me, I’d have by no means guessed it. It is gone. All of it.”

“It was my first time again within the swamp after the storm,” Neil tells me over the cellphone two years afterward the second anniversary of Katrina’s landfall. “It was coronary heart breaking. I am not an emotional individual, however I’ve to let you know I used to be in tears.” A pair hours on a ship with Captain Neil reveals his zeal for this place.

Again in open water, we noticed our first gator. As soon as we noticed one, we began seeing them all over the place. As we handed, alligators would swim towards the boat angling for the marshmallows Neil would toss to them. He even reached out to pet the one he calls Large Al.

Within the swamp, you see a variety of issues out of the nook of your eye. A frog or a snake right here, an alligator or a wild boar there. Tales abound about an elusive creature affectionately known as “The Factor.” Of the quite a few reported sightings, no intelligible picture has ever been taken of the beast. However there are many believers. The Honey Island Swamp monster is greater than a fantasy to fisherman and swamp-dwellers. Through the years a number of investigators have produced plaster casts of the monster’s supposed footprints. Neil owns one in all these casts. He most popular to not focus on it through the tour, “as a result of I might prefer to have some credibility.” His official place? “I consider within the Honey Island Swamp Monster and due to this fact, it exists. If God didn’t exist, it will be essential to invent him.”

We didn’t witness this legendary creature that day. However then once more possibly we had been solely taken to the “tourist-friendly” areas of the swamp the place the beast is much less more likely to skulk. a satellite tv for pc picture of the swamp I am amazed at how little of it we noticed. Subsequent time I am down that means I plan to persuade Neil to introduce me to the extra secreted grottoes of this mysterious and great place.

Neil tells me he does take folks out on prolonged non-public excursions, however he requires prospects to signal a “signal your life away” waiver.

“As a result of whenever you get that far out in the course of nowhere, nobody can predict what could occur.”

Signal me up, Neil!

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